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Comunidad Queros

Queros The native community living in the territories of neighboring Rio Queros in the jungle of Madre de Dios in Peru '. It 'a community' in danger of extinction, have been just six families and only three of these live in the community 'on a permanent basis. Their language and 'the Huachipaeri which unfortunately is likely to join the many other dead languages \u200b\u200b.. The talk about the old and the generation of our parents, children of the community 'understand it, but already' do not use it in everyday life.
the community 'we lived for almost a month and it' been a tutto sommato positiva a parte queste note dolenti che lasciano l'amaro in bocca. I Queros stanno tentando attraverso un progetto di turismo responsabile di creare posti di lavoro all'interno della comunita' in modo da facilitare l'eventuale rientro dei membri che sono emigrati verso le citta' o i paesi limitrofi in cerca di lavoro. Il nostro compito era quello di dare una consulenza e un parere sul progetto ancora in costruzione.
E' un argomento piuttosto delicato poiche' si sa che il turismo puo' essere un'arma a doppio taglio, in ogni caso il progetto non prevede invasioni di gringos, insomma non si vuole proporre un turismo di massa in una comunita' che e' abituata a vivere nella tranquillita' della selva. Quello che piu' mi preoccupa e' la perdita' roots, with the loss of the idiom the community 'would be converted into a community' with the campesinos of archaic traditions and customs on display only at the arrival of tourists and then actually lost in everyday life. The
Queros engaged in the hunting and fishing in an ever more 'reduced it will reduce the population grow rice, yucca, plantains, coca and harvest the fruits of the forest in a completely sustainable, that' for the sheer livelihood of the community ' .
Life 'simple but not poor: if Queros were to disappear it would not be for lack of sources of livelihood, but the exodus of its components.
traditions are handed down orally of course. The woman most 'old of the community' Estela told us about the past history of his people, the wars with the other communities 'songs and dances and feast days that drinking masato is a' abbardente made with yucca. One day, he also sang in Huachipaeri, a couple of bars of a song that apparently spoke of the sad death. The Spaniard spoke it badly and maybe after a few minutes of conversation began to speak in his own language without realizing it, quiet as if we could understand .. Bette laugh! We had a picture of her, but when we went we found that to develop the film was burned. She 's the best memory' good that I still have this experience.

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The Ch'alla


The Ch'alla and 'an Andean ritual in honor of Pachamama (Mother Earth), in this case the protection is sought, it is being asked a good harvest, a good year, a good trip, anything .. The Ch'alla carnival and 'one of the most' important of the year, all traders blessed their shops or stalls for road, all ch'allavano! and we have to be good travelers ch'allato our backpacks and our instruments, in addition to the van Quel 'cause continues to travel as it has done so far! Of course, we also organized a concert with songs Bolivian, Brazilian, Argentinian, Italian and English and we spent the afternoon playing next to the van! Gracias chicos que fue lindo!

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fotukas tinkuna Cochabamba! Doña


The Tinkuna and 'center capital of Cochabamba in Bolivia, among other activities' support for school children and organizes activities' in the central town square, 'as the Universidad del pueblo!
Tinkuna the past ten days we know a lot of interesting people, many Bolivian musicians, actors and many Argentines musicians and dear Victor, The Brazilian magician caipiriña! with him and many others have also been through the carnival of Oruro and La Paz.
of photos there are few left, but all those that we have collected here or put them on Flickr.
hug you all! between theft and the misadventures journey continues and the spirit is not lacking!

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Feliz and the rain ..

Hello everyone! I hope you are all well after the Christmas fat .. ehee
Life here goes along with travel, we are still in Bolivia, specifically in Cochabamba,
we arrived here two days, after a week of hiking and we are indulging in a hostel with baño compartido, but television in the bedroom ..
From Potosi we left for a two-day in the Andes, killing a walk of 37 km in total, almost always in the rain or snow, bett'isfiga ... we're still cool, but it is still worth the pena.La guide was the same man who brought us to the mines, knows this area of \u200b\u200bthe Cordillera as well as the campesinos who live on the plateau.

We spent the night at the home of Doña Feliz, a Quechua ziedda of 90 years who does not speak a word of English and lives with a son in a house surrounded by mountains on three hours' walk from the first village. At age 90 is still fully self-sufficient, and the blade follows the sheep grazing and the hunting dog in the yard irroccandolo ... Quechua, bette laugh, like a Sardinian ziedda. Live without water or light and has a kitchen that feeds on a plant dry Altiplanico (Llaret) and dung of llamas and sheep dry.
During dinner, we tried to learn a bit 'in Quechua always with the help of the guide (Roberto, a former miner toothless and blunders, and with the mist of the mountains was lost for a little ..), the language is difficult, with a Lots of sounds unpronounceable, but in the end Something more than a thank you we were able to put it. A Doña Feliz we offered chocolate, a bit 'of cognac to warm and some cigarettes, she smoked a happy and accepted everything be' even if not inhaled.
the morning after waking up was still raining, Doña Feliz stood before the door blowing "pfa, pfa .." and spoke with the rain, we asked Robert what he was doing, she told us that he was blowing the rain asking her to let her son return to the country ...
short of beautiful scenes! Going to the country on the second day, we stopped at the home of another family of campesino Quechua, boiled beans that have both offered and accepted cigarettes here too, it seems that the Quechua like smoking .. and even be photographed.
In this house we also know that the son of Doña Feliz c'aveva bette still drunk from the day before and return home there was not even thinking ..
At the end of the excursion we have unfortunately lost the car fotografica, con tutte le foto delle case, di Doña Feliza e dell'altra famiglia... bett'isfiga!! le foto erano senz'altro le piu' belle fin'ora..

Un'altra escursione di tre giorni l'abbiamo fatta al Salar de Uyuni (un mare di sale di 12400 km2) e a varie lagune e deserti altiplanici, di questa abbiamo le foto che metteró al piu' presto, il computer di oggi non ha usb..
Alla prossima, un abbraccio a tutti dalla Bolivia (pare proprio che sia femminile...), circola una strana leggenda, dicono che sia un paese pericoloso... mavaffff... i boliviani sono un popolo di tranquilloni, grandi lavoratori ma in maniera rilassata, La Paz non mi é sembrata piú pericolosa di Parigi o Roma, dipende sempre da COME e where speed ...
Ciaoooooooooooooo

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El Cerro Rico de Potosí BOLIVIA

Potosí, the highest city in the world, 3,967 above sea level. But, alas, this is not the only reason this place is famous .. I do not know if you've never heard of, yet Europe's wealth of our time also depends on what happened here five centuries ago, and that unfortunately continues to happen.

Potosí, with the arrival of English colonization, was converted in a short time in the largest silver mine in the world, able to thrive in European markets and can starve, exploit and kill 9 million Indians a couple of centuries.

The famous "Cerro Rico" (the mountain that still dominates the city) of silver contained the hitherto unimaginable, the silver mines of the ancient world were abandoned and quickly all the production of time concentrated here. Slaves were always the Indians who populated this land, they knew the silver, but its use was limited to religious services, had never checked out to get rich, simply did not need it ... the money did not exist and even mines. Other slaves were brought from Africa, were weaker than the native Indians, they could not stand the high ground and do not chew coca, was another massacre.

miners in Potosí is now 24000, with a guide (ex-miner) we went into the mine for three hours, an hour after you already want to go out .. spaces are narrow, the belly of the mountain is a maze in which it is easy to get lost and to the sides of the "streets" underground real open abysses that veins are already 'over and in a moment where you can' slip ..

Death is always present the miners down there and take account of not caring too much of alronde know they can die every day coming in, or 35-40 years of silicosis. The resignation is a palpable feeling, mine are in up to 24 hours straight, chewing leaves cocaine, smoking and drinking pure alcohol (96 degrees .. and I'm not kidding), say that the health of your liver is not too worried about them, will be another evil to take them away ..

The miners are organized into cooperatives, but am not able to understand well the function .. Generally, the miner here works for himself, he entered the mine in search of a vein, the costs will all be against it until they have successfully found (explosives, cocaine, alcohol and miscellaneous equipment), the guards are too expensive for poor miners None of them wearing masks and gloves ..

Fotunato if it will be quite large and the vein may take other miners to their dependencies, but this does not mean the end of his work under the ground ..

The Cerro of Potosi is now gutted, the 5100 m high mountain is now down to 4800m, they say that in 12 years there will be nothing and Potosi will become a ghost town like so many others .. For now, we continue to remove lead, copper, zinc, tin and other minerals, the silver is now rare, the English mined only one ..

In the book "The Open Veins of Latin America," Galeano explains much better than me and the history of the Cerro Rico of Potosí, really good book ..